Step into your backyard and imagine what it would be like to rest your eyes upon a tranquil pond, or to hear a waterfall splashing in the distance. Whether you live inland or near the ocean, the sound of water in your garden will draw you and your family into the great outdoors, right in your own backyard.

Once considered an expensive, high-maintenance hobby only for the wealthy, water gardening has become easier and more affordable. From do-it-yourself projects to professionally designed water gardens, the trend across the country is toward ponds and pools, waterfalls, fountains, wetland gardens and dry creek beds. You can even relax on your patio to the sound of a tabletop foun­tain or waterfall. Courtyards and patios are perfect places for container water gardens and other small-scale water features.

If you choose to build a pond or have one built for you, you’ll need to study your landscape carefully to determine the best placement. Sunlight, shade trees and safety are major factors. As with swimming poois, it’s imperative to check your local city ordinances for restrictions, fencing requirements and zoning laws. You’ll also want to decide whether you prefer a formal, symmetrical look or a more informal, naturalistic land­scape.

Although water gardening takes minimal effort, it’s wise to start small and progress to larger-sized water fea­tures. As the seasons change, your pond chores will vary. A small amount of time devoted each week to mainte­nance is well worth the effort.

LOCATION & PLANNING

If you wish to grow water lilies, choose a full-sun location (6 to 8 hours daily), away from young and/or deciduous trees. Not only do trees block sunlight, but their fallen leaves can create toxic conditions in the pond as they decompose. As the trees grow, their roots can invade and damage your pool. Some other questions to ask yourself: Is there a properly grounded electrical con­nection available for a circulating pump, waterfall, foun­tain or lighting? Is the location sheltered from prevailing winds? Is there a water supply for easy filling and a way to drain the pond for cleaning? Do you want the pond to be visible from indoors?

Then, put your plan on paper or computer. Draw to scale all structures, boundaries, trees and any immovable objects. Using a garden hose or clothesline in the yard, outline the pool. Leave it in place for a day or so. Over a sunny day, observe the site to make sure it’s getting full sun. It’s easier to make changes on paper, before you begin digging.

INSTALLATION & PLANTING

A good instruction manual takes you step by step through the installation process, which includes the fol­lowing:

· Excavate to the correct depth and shape, checking repeatedly to make sure the pond’s foundation is level.

· Remove rocks. Cover the bottom with a layer of sand. A fiberglass pool should be positioned and back-filled with soil around the sides. A PVC liner must over­lap the pond’s excavated dimensions by at least 6 inches on all sides.

· Finish the pond with plants, fish and decorative touches around the edges. The water may look murky at first, but it will settle within a few weeks.

Water lilies are the most common types of aquatic plants grown in water gardens. There are two types: hardy and tropical. The hardy flowering perennials return each year. Their fragrant blooms open early in the day and close in the afternoon, lasting three to five days. After blooming, the plants produce more blossoms. Tropical water lilies are best treated as annuals. They bloom from mid-spring to frost. Most are fragrant, and there are day-blooming and night-blooming varieties available. Companion plants that will thrive either in the water or at the water’s edge include irises, reeds, wild­flowers and ornamental grasses.

When purchasing plants, know their mature sizes so that you’ll know how many your pool will accommodate. Most plants will fit into one of the following categories:

· Extensive (covers 12 square feet)

· Medium (6-12 square feet)

· Small (less than 6 square feet)

For example, in an 8’ x 10’ pool you can grow one “extensive” plant, two to three “mediums” and two “small” water lilies.

JUST ADD WATER!
Whether your pond is in the ground or in a tub on the patio, it will be healthier and more attractive if it’s not overflowing with plants and blocking your view of the water.

By growing plants in containers rather than in soil on the pond floor, you’ll keep the water cleaner and control aggressive plants. It’s also easier to tend these plants and move them to different locations in the pond. Try a water lily or mini lotus, a couple of submerged plants and a vertical accent plant. Add a pair of snails and a pair of goldfish (koi). Your Showplace professional can help you learn more about koi and the mosquito-eating fish, gain­busia.

To plant water lilies, you’ll need:

· Specialty “basket” container(s): 12” wide x 6” deep, up to 2’ x 2’ x 10” deep

· Burlap (optional, to line basket)

· Heavy, sticky soil. Don’t use commercial potting soil, peat moss or rotted wood.

· Fertilizer tablets recommended for water plants

· Pebbles to hold in soil, and bricks for supports Line planting basket with burlap. As the plant’s roots grow, they’ll hold soil when the fabric deteriorates. Fill the container 2/3 to 3/4 full of soil. For hardy lilies, place the rhi­zome at a 30-degree angle with the growing tip sticking up out of the soil. For tropical varieties, place the plant in a hole with the roots spread out evenly. With your fin­gers, work soil in around roots. Add fertilizer tablets according to package directions. Cover soil with pebbles. Pour pond water into the newly planted container to dis­place the air. Place container into the pool at the correct depth for the plant. Note: Because water is warmer near the top of the pond, new plants need to be closer to the surface until their stems mature. Use bricks or other stur­dy material to support containers at the correct depth. As stems develop, remove bricks and lower plants to the pond floor. Maintain a constant water level year-round in your pond.